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20 Miles on the Lower Wisconsin: 3 day weekend, mid-August, 2001 Location: Muscoda to Boscobel, 4+ hours from Chicago Class: Unknown [more info] Rafting the Pacuare & Sarapiquí Rivers: 4/1/2002 Location: Costa Rica Class: III-IV [more info] Vermilion: May 1 2005 Location: IL Class: I-II [more info] Red River: May 6, 2007 Location: Near the Wolf River in Wisconsin Class: none [more info] Big Fun on Gauley Tributaries: Memorial Day Weekend, 2001 Location: Southern West Virginia Class: III-IV [more info] |
Trip Report Detail
Rafting the Pacuare & Sarapiquí Rivers: 4/1/2002 Full Report: While preparing to vacation in Costa Rica, Jessica and I decided we'd like to do some paddling. We signed up to do a Class III-IV rafting trip down the Pacuare as well as a rafting trip down the Sarapiquí (II-III) one week later. Rafting you say? Well our paddling skills were ok for Illinois and beginner trips but we didn't feel comfortable trying a harder river in a strange country in playboats (yikes! I want my RPM). We did later request duckies for the Sarapiquí, so no fear we did push ourselves a bit. None the less, these rivers were amazing- no matter how we ran them. On to the trip... After a long bumpy ride (as all rides are in Costa Rica) towards the eastern coast, we turned onto an even more bumpy dirt road and wound our way to a top of a valley. From here we hiked down the "new road" (steep with dirt) to our put-in. Only one other company was rafting that day so it was pretty quiet and there were about 4-5 rafts to each group. Luckily we had an english speaking guide, Paulo. Once we discussed safety and basic paddling strokes we were off on the river. After a few practices on moving water (Forward, Together!, Esstop. Forward, Together, Together!, Esstop.) and some rearranging we all got our places figured out and we really started enjoying the scenery. Paulo (also a Biology major at the University) pointed out many trees, birds (toucans!), and sites along the way. We saw large baskets on wires crossing the river- we were told they were used for evacuations and moreso for moving provisions across the river for those in the area on the other side of the river. We also found out that some indigenous people lived on the inaccessible side. A second basket also marks the turn-back point, notably not that far along after the river's put-in. From there on out it is a fast moving river flowing through virgin rain forest. As many of you have probably experienced, many rivers have a few big rapids and many flat, slow moving sections. But, if you are like me and you wish there more rapids this is THE river for you! We ran many smaller rapids but quite a few large ones as well: Wake-up Falls, Double Drop, Huacas, Cimarron. The safety kayakers that went along with us were amazing, cartwheeling left and right and their sweep rolls seemed so graceful. At the time we felt that there was no way we've run the river in a kayak anytime soon. At the halfway point there are 2 lodges where you can stay overnight. The pacuare lodge was actually noted a top wild place to stay in Outside Traveler magazine this year. There you stay in huts and can hike around the rainforest, cliff jump, and play in waterfalls. Anyways, we picked up 2 more rafters from the lodge and continued on. Paulo was a great guide and liked to play in the water (a kayaker at heart) so we stopped at a few holes and surfed the raft as best we could. I've never been in a raft completly filled with water and stuck in a hole before- that's for sure! He eventually pulled us out and we continued on our adventure. Along the way many waterfalls plunged straight into the river and onto us. Since the water was so warm it was very refreshing from all the hard paddling. One of the last waterfalls we ran under also happens to be shown in the movie "Congo" (as well as the Costa Rican Arenal Volcano) in case you want to see for yourself. This last waterfall sneaks your attention away from what's ahead, Dos Montanas Gorge. This gorge is really an amazing site. It's quite dark with cliffs towering over you and you can only see 20% of the mountains on each side. A perfect place to swim and hang out under the small trickles of water coming off the cliffs. After our float through the canyon we finagled ourselves back into the rafts. We were then told about how the area may be dammed and flooded and the politics surrounding it. Very upsetting. After a few more rapids we were done for the day with a private lodge with dressing rooms and open showers along with a snack bar: rafting in style. We didn't realize until after a shorter ride back and night of rest that we had had a long, hard day as our muscles were a little sore. But we knew that we had had a paddle of a lifetime. Our trip down the Pacuare was just the beginning of our adventures. We travelled on to Arenal Volcano where lava flows on a daily basis. Our hotel was nestled into the base of the volcano (on the non active side) and acted as our base camp. We took part in a canopy tour, zipping along 5 cables over a lake and through rainforest. (Very exilerating even for us climbers!) The next day a local guide led us down to Fortuna Waterfall deep in the jungle valley and later on through another section of rainforest. After viewing a toucan and some spider monkeys we trekked on to see the sun set over Lake Arenal and to watch the lava glow red and boulders tumble down. The Volcano's last few big eruptions created hot springs- definatly something not to miss- ok that and soaking in the hot spring at the wet bar :)! Continuing our travels we bussed it along Lake Arenal (another very long bumpy ride with many "Peligroso" signs and "Oh my god" bridges) and eventually we made it to Tamarindo on the Pacific Ocean. There our trip toned it down a bit with leisurely walks along the beach, watching surfers, taking a sunset sailboat cruise, snorkeling, sport fishing and some sit-on-top kayaking. Ok well it sounds busier than it was, we did do a lot of watching the geckos and hanging out in the hammocks... After 4 hot (and ozone warning) but relaxing days we bussed it back to San Jose for one final day on the river. As part of our package we first drove by coffee fields and visited LaPaz Waterfall gardens, which also happens to have butterfly and hummingbird gardens. Each of us got to set newly emerged butterflies free to fly. On to the La Paz waterfalls- 3 very high and very wet falls that are quite beautiful. Soon it was back to our typical breakfast (gallo pinto, huevos, y frutas) then back to the bus to travel to the put-in for the Saripiqui. We joined up with the rest of the group at the put-in of the Saripiqui. Due to Paulo's suggestion the week before, we had duckies waiting for us while the other two participants from the morning joined some others in a raft. One of the guides became sick so Paulo could not ride with us in his InaZone but instead had to guide the raft. So the usual safety and practice session was given to the rafters. We were given the ok to just stick nearby and watch the signs of the guides to get beta on what routes to run. The Saripiqui was very low (1/2" lower and it would be unrunnable) so we had a lot of beached rafts and we had a few bouncing fits to keep us moving along. Overall it was a nice river- warm water, plenty of locals swinging out and fishing, many birds, and a few good drops to keep us on our toes. Our balance must still be pretty good as we didn't fall out even though the water pushed us into a few walls after spitting us out of the rapids. The duckies were definatly much more fun, bigger water and lower to the river- just the way we like it! We attempted to surf a wave, but it was pretty difficult for us... I guess we're just used to paddling individually in our own boats. We pulled into the normal take-out but since Paulo really wanted to play in his kayak he convinced the helpers to let us continue down a bit further. The two other participants that we were with earlier joined us in another duckie and we, "experienced" paddlers, split up. Not a lot of rapids but enough to get us wet and work our steering skills. It was in this section that we saw another toucan, howler monkeys, and -crazy enough- a poisonous frog. Paulo knew the area where the frogs have been spotted, they are very territorial, and within 30 seconds of stopping he had a tiny red and blue frog in his hands. No worries, it's only poisonous if it gets in your blood stream. We didn't want to terrorize him too long, so after a minute we let him go and were on our way. The second take-out was soon upon us. It was a great paddle, but I can definately say we're ready to get back in *our* kayaks! Our trip was unbelievable, many adventures and such beautiful country. We're already planning on coming back :) I know a few CWA members have already been there, but if you haven't definatly add it to your list. One more thing, if you think these rivers sound great (which they are) you may want to visit sooner rather than later. Dams were being planned for the Pacuare back in 2002 so check before you plan anything for sure! |
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